Development of CRIEPI real-time wave forecasting system

A real time wave-forecasting system is developed, in which pre-processes, numerical simulations of wave hind- and fore-casting, and post-processes are automatically carried out. Figures of the significant wave height, mean wave period, peak frequency, and wave direction, which are obtained by the system, are outputted on the web-site appointed by a user. Accuracy verification of the wave forecasting systems is investigated. The results show that the rising times and peak values of significant wave height are generally estimated well by the forecasting system for the open ocean. On the other hand, the rising times are estimated well, but the values of significant wave height are underestimated for the coastal areas. The estimated values of significant wave period are largely scattered for both the open ocean and the coastal area. The forecasting accuracies of significant wave height and wave period depend on the sea areas and the seasons. (author)